|TOOLS & EQUIPMENT |
TillieMeyer Mini Fleshing Machine
The TillieMeyer Mini Fleshing Machine makes working on small, medium sized specimens as well as detail work on capes simple and profitable. Never before has there been a full service mini fleshing machine like this gem! This mini-flesher will replace a lot of work done by hand and knife. You no longer need to turn down the little job that always ends up costing you more time and money than you have quoted for the job.
This is not a machine you will use 6-10 hours a day like a commercial electric machine. It is designed to replace handwork not able to be done with a larger machine. The mini flesher gives you better control on small and delicate skins and reduces the risk of damaging skins giving great results.
Rotating guards on the TillieMeyer Mini Flesher 4º from top center, gives you a better visual view. If you set the knife of the machine at chest level or just below, it is not as hard on your back. It is the same if you plan to use it sitting down. This is no different than if you were to use a larger electric fleshing machine.
This machine can be hand held as well. Release the power source from the clamp and take a normal handgrip, placing your thumb over the collet guard. The flesher is balanced and comfortable. The guards can be rotated up to 8º from top center if needed in this position.
Using the machine while sitting down either in the table stand or hand held has a great opportunity of helping another group of people that have been truly left out of the fleshing process. For those physically challenged or confined to wheelchairs this fleshing machine can be used while sitting down. If needed, rotate guards from the recommended 4º to 8º from top center. This can give more flexibility of positioning the working surface. With guards protecting the knife and collet, the safety issues have been addressed. The balance of this machine when used as a hand-held unit will help reduce the fatigue factor for arm and wrist during normal operations and use.
The TillieMeyer Mini Flesher does not and will not replace the 73 or 11H large electric fleshing machines in the taxidermy or tanning industries. It is not designed for such a purpose. This unit gives you a full service, portable, desk top machine for small and medium mammals, reptiles, fish and more.
The CCK300ss Currier Knife has a -90º knife-edge which meets the needs for most people familiar with circular knives. This 90º knife-edge will be eventually replaced with a designed knife-edge of approximately 100º, giving the end user the ability to obtain peak performance similar to our 73 (CCK725ss) and 11H (CCK1175ss) Circular Currier Knives.
This mini flesher has foot controlled speed giving you control of the rpm. Always use protective glasses and do not put a wire wheel on this machine. Most wire wheels are not rated for speeds air tools normally run. You could damage the machine, but more importantly, you could be badly injured.
There are no tricks or shortcuts to fleshing skins, but it isn't difficult to learn. The best teacher is experience. Simple to clean, easy to maintain and made of quality die cast aluminum.
*Use of an equivalent electric grinding tool would burn out the motor brushes frequently and is also quite large and not compatible with keeping the unit compact and balanced.
Stainless steel knife cutting guide. An indispensable tool for skinning birds, mammals, reptiles and fish! No more zigzags! Whether you are making incisions on animals like fish, reptiles or mammals, Straight Cut gives you the advantage of making a straight cut every time. Slide your knife down the keyed rod under the skin from scale to scale, cuts through hair, pads on feet and makes skinning tails easy while making a straight accurate cut.
Makes straight incisions a breeze
Guides your knife blade precisely
2 sizes for all skinning applications
Instructions included with each set
Tungsten Honing Steels
There are a number of honing steels offered on the market as well as many types of metal/steel materials used. The finer grain of metal used, the better results that you will have. With that said, the hardest metal is essential to achieve the truest and most consistent finish.
We don't recommend metals that have the tendency to be coarse: alloy, high carbon alloy, spring or tool steels
The honing steel must be made of harder material than you are trying to hone. Some metals may be non-magnetic, but after cold working may become magnetic. These magnetic properties may result in shortening the life of the knife-edge. The limited amount of time per applied honing on the knife-edge results in a better chance the integrity of the knife-edge is not altered. This statement is relating to the pressure and heat build-up. Repeated honing is not an issue.
Don't confuse this honing steel with sharpened or re-ground circular knives. These are two completely different processes and serve different needs.
1) Honing: Tunes the knife-edge to keep it working at its optimum.
2) Sharpening: Removes only enough surface metal to achieve sharp edge.
3) Re-grinding: Existing knife-edge is removed by grinding it down to a straight knife-edge before the edge is turned over.
We have chosen to make our honing steels with pure tungsten rod, offering the hardest material, finest grain and highest quality machine finished rod possible to achieve the best possible results. The melting point of pure Tungsten is 6150º F (3400º C), the highest of any steel. The Tungsten Honing Steels we offer have excellent strength at high temperatures, exceptional resistance to corrosion as well as heat conducting abilities.
Our recommendations is to use one steel. Hone the underside of the knife-edge and then the topside of the knife-edge. It seems to be a common practice or recommendation in the taxidermy trade that you use two honing steels at the same time. We consider this simply a short cut and we do not recommend this approach. It is difficult enough to hold one steel at the correct angle for honing, much less two.
Circular Knife Sharpener
All types of knives need to be sharpened, and for all these years, the taxidermy and tanning trades have had no alternative other than to re-grind circular currier knives when they got dull. The "Circular Knife Sharpener" can be used on all circular currier knives for basic in-house sharpening. Sharpener comes in ready-to-use kit.
The owner/operator manual comes with illustrations and photographs. If the main clamp will not attach to your machine, pages 11-14 explains how to make a simple bracket that will get you started for very little cost. There are a few fleshing machines that use sleeve clamps to hold the knife guards and there are two sleeve adapters that make set-up quick and easy. The guards have to be removed to sharpen your knife, so utilizing the sleeve clamps make sense. Sleeve clamps are in different locations on all the machines and that is discussed on pages 14-15.
Remember the Circular Knife Sharpener is not a re-grinder, nor will it true up your knife that is not running true. Snaktan® developed a process to sharpen dull circular knives, remove small dings and nicks, but becoming familiar with and getting the feel of how the sharpener works will be the key to solving shaving frustration. Honing up a degree here and down a degree there, is not a technique that we promote. Honing and sharpening the tip, inside and outside edges of your knife to the angle they were originally sharpened give the optimum performance. If honing no longer keeps the knife shaving smooth and with consistent results, it is time to look at sharpening. Keep your fleshing machines running at peak performance. Circular Knife Sharpener is the sharpener that give you an edge!
Circular Currier Knives
Universal fleshing application, stainless steel with good machinability. Holds a superior edge and hones easily with a Tungsten honing steel.
Diagram of Circular Currier Knives shown below
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